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Fuel lines and breathes

Tools and parts

Mole grips/fuel clamps
screwdriver
tourch
petrol cans
fuel lines and clamps
<optional>fuel filter

Note: get plain fuel hose and not braided as you can't tell if braided hose is splitting.

The Fuel lines are probably the most important thing that you can check on a bus. So many busses over the years have been lost to fire down to the fuel lines. First thing to check is that the joints are not leaking. there are several joints in the engine bay and 2 underneath.

Checking the pipes

To check the pipes you need to examine the rubber by bending it slightly and looking for any splits in it. If the rubber feels hard or there are splits change it immediately, as an engine fire from this is almost unstoppable as the fuel will just keep coming out once split.

The pipe run

So starting at the yellow arrow there is a rubber pipe with a jubilee clip that holds the pipe onto the fuel pump. Now remember there are two pipes from the pump, one to the carburettor and one to the tank. They both need checking but the one to the tank is normally the one that causes the fires as it continues under the van so I will follow this one in this page. If you follow this pipe, which may or may not have a fuel filter in line in it, it will join to a metal pipe that goes through the tinware to the underneath (green arrow). Once underneath the pipe will run from the nearside rear wheel back into a rubber pipe (this is the most common place for leaks due to it being out of site and immediately over the exhaust. I just hope the designer of it still has nightmares!)  The rubber pipe then runs forward a little and then across to the offside (drivers side) of the van and up to the tank.

Changing the pipes

Now as this involves petrol I would urge to to only do this if you feel confident. Although its a relatively simple (if awkward) job it has a high risk due as you will have petrol in open cans. So a few tips, always do this in a ventilated area away from naked flame and have some form of fire extinguishers ready.

Step 1. Draining the tank.
I strongly advise draining the tank before starting this job. The best way to do this is to get a pipe clamp (or mole grips as your replacing the pipe so damage isn't a problem), and clamp off the fuel pipe under the van. then remove the clamp/jubilee clip by the rear wheel underneath the van. You can now drain the tank using the open end of the pipe and using the mole grips as a tap.

Step 2 changing the pipes
To change the pipes you just need to remove the old pipe and replace it with a new one making sure that the ends are securely done up. While the tank is drained you may as well replace all the pipes up to the carburettor and add in a fuel filter for good measure.

Step 3. filling up
Ok so I shouldn't need this step but just in case ... when you fill the van back up only add 1 gallon of fuel check the lines, and then start the engine for 30 seconds and re-check. This will get the fuel down the pipes so when you check the second time you know there is fuel in the pipes. remember to check each joint in the pipe carefully. If satisfied, take the van for a run round the block and check again. If your concerned think about taking the van to a mechanic to check over your work (remember your messing with a highly combustible liquid here ... BE SAFE).

You should check the pipes every year to make sure they are ok and change whenever necessary.

The T-piece on the breather from the tank is prone to splitting. This will give a smell of petrol in the cab when running and after especially after filling up. You can replace the T-Piece quite cheaply. the other end of the pipe should terminate at the airbox but if you have a pancake filter like mine you may wish to route the pipe out of the engine bay to the underside of the tinware. Just remember that this pipe will carry fuel fumes so make sure its out of the way of anything that may cause a spark or it to ignite.